I like to mark the end of summer by getting away over the Labour Day weekend. Most years we’ve done a hiking or backpacking trip and this year was no exception. Our destination was Waterton Lakes National Park, about three hours south of Calgary on the border with Montana. Waterton adjoins Glacier National Park so the hiking options between the two parks are extraordinary.
We spent two nights and three days in Waterton – hiking Lineham Ridge, Crypt Lake and the Carthew Summit/Alderson Lake trail. All were outstanding in their own way so it’s hard to pick a favourite.
Certainly the Lineham Ridge hike started off with a bang – of beauty. Within minutes of leaving the trailhead you can’t miss the Rowe Creek streambed. It dazzles you with its’ brilliant red argillite – a fine grained sedimentary rock.
For the next 3.9 kilometers it’s a hike on a moderate grade through country that feels to me like a grizzly might pop out the woods at any second. That’s the one problem with Waterton Lakes NP – it does have a large grizzly population and there have been incidents over the years. It might be best if you didn’t read The Bear’s Embrace before you visit Waterton.
Fortunately the only bear we saw over the three days was a small black bear just off the road by the Prince of Wales Hotel. But I did see bear scat just up from where the photo below was taken. It got the adrenalin going so I broke out in song which should be enough to scare any wild animal away.
At the 3.9 kilometer mark you reach a junction and a trail to Lower Rowe Lakes. We figured we’d see the lake well enough from the summit so didn’t bother to hike it. Instead we continued up to the beautiful Rowe Basin, 1.3 kilometers ahead.
From Rowe Basin you begin climbing in earnest. Its a total of 540 meters (1770 feet) from here to the top of the ridge. Fortunately it’s also glorious hiking. There are wildflowers about, and even some big horned sheep next to the cliffs. They refused to pose properly for photos. If you want to visit the Upper Rowe Lakes look out for the spur trail as it takes off just above Rowe Basin.
Hiking Lineham Ridge is delightful once you’re out of the berry bushes. It’s a hike that offers superlative views for the better part of three hours and those views to the south are of the equally beautiful Glacier National Park.
Useful information for the Lineham Ridge hike
- The trail starts at the Rowe Lakes Trailhead, 10.5 kilometers up the Akamina Parkway. Parking can get tight.
- The round trip hike is 17.2 kilometers (10.7 miles). It’s another 2.4 kilometers if you make the side trip to the Upper Rowe Lakes.
- The elevation gain is 1120 meters (3150 feet) but 1120 meters (3675 feet) if you hike to the lakes.
- The round trip hike takes 5½ to 6½ hours. Add another hour at least for the lakes.